Dogs Tick

Dogs’ tick may be harder to detect, especially when it comes to our canine pets. Aside from having lots of fur to contend with, many kinds of dogs tick attaches themselves to the underbellies and back areas of the animal. The dogs have a harder time reaching for them, and owners almost always never notice dogs tick until an infestation manifests. And by that time, the dogs’ tick may already multiplied by the thousands, may have already made our pets sick, and worse, may have already transferred to other hosts.

Fortunately, there are some simple, basic and easy home and herbal remedies when it comes to controlling and eradicating your dogs’ tick problems. One of these includes making a herbal dogs tick scrub for your pet.

First thing’s first. It is imperative to maintain a regular bathing and grooming schedule for your pet. Prevention is always the best way of handling your dogs’ tick problems. In any case, a dogs tick scrub should only be applied after a good doggy bath. Use lemon or mint based shampoos and soaps, if possible.

Make sure that your pet is almost dry before applying this dogs’ tick scrub. For this you would need:

* 2 pieces medium sized lemons
* 4 cups of water

Slice the lemons crosswise and boil in 4 cups of water. Allow the water to be reduced to about 2 to 3 cups before turning off the fire. Allow this concoction to stand for 24 hours in room temperature. You can use this mixture as a great dogs tick scrub, using the leftover lemon rind and flesh as the actual scrub. This works particularly well in areas where there are visible ticks to be seen.

You may want to increase the volume of this dogs tick scrub for larger pets; but this solution is suitable already for tiny, small and medium sized pets. You can also use mint, particularly pennyroyal, as a substitute for the lemon. Mint based dogs tick scrubs are likewise as effective.

Just apply small dabs of this mixture on your pets’ fur, scrub gently and let it dry. Aside from killing off the ticks, this will also help repel the other parasites as well.

If your dog is not particularly fond of doggy baths, you need to maintain a regular and more intensive grooming schedule. You can detect early signs of dogs tick and other parasite by simply running your hands over your pets’ coats or constantly brushing your dogs’ fur. Be extra attentive to bumps and lumps in your pets’ fur. U
1000
se the scrub when you see or feel a tick underneath.

By: ohad az

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Your dogs paws are a critical piece of equipment so practicing good dog paw health care is vital for the well-being of your pet. Let’s face it, dogs don’t wear shoes to protect their paws so paying a little bit of extra attention to this area can help keep their feet working in tip top shape.

Doc’s paws are actually quite a complicated part of their body. On the bottom they have several pads that act as a cushioning and springing mechanism. On the edges are the toenails which can be used to claw and dig and on the top is the fur which of course protects the foot. While not all dogs paws are created exactly equal, they are all pretty similar.

Taking care of your dogs paws should be part of your normal health and grooming routine for the dog. Here are a few of the steps you should take to ensure good dog paw health:

- inspect and the pads periodically for splinters or foreign material and remove it.

- keep your dogs nails trimmed.

- keep the fur in between the dog’s pads trimmed

- don’t let your dog walk in puddles that may have chemicals like anti-freeze in them

- always dry off your dog’s pads after he has been walking in a wet area

While you may not think it because they walk on them, most dogs feet are very sensitive and you may have a hard time getting your dog to submit to having his paws inspected if he’s not used to it. The best thing for you to do is to start touching the paws when he is a puppy. Every day spend some time just lightly touching the paws until the dog gets used to it. Then you can move on to a more thorough inspection gradually doing more and more as your dog will allow.

Try to make grooming and inspecting your dogs paws part of your weekly grooming routine. Check the nails to make sure they are not too long and cut them if they are. Some dogs have hair that grows out in between the pads and this can actually get quite long making it hard for them to walk because it can be slippery. If your dog is one of these breeds make sure you keep the hair trimmed down below the pads but be very careful when you have scissors near the pads of your dogs feet.

Every good dog owner wants to make sure that his dog is in the best health possible and having a good dog paw health regimen is just one of the things that conscientious dog owners need to do for perfect pet health. Educating yourself on the health and training needs of your dog and providing those for him will insure a happy, healthy and long-lived pet.

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Would you like to have a dog that is perfectly healthy, happy and well trained? If you’re ready to learn more about dog care and training, visit http://dogcareandtrainingtips.com and download our free ebook on dog care and training

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I mean, think about it. A dogs' teeth go through seven years in the time that a humans' teeth go through one. But yet, a dogs' teeth stay white without monthly dental care, and do not fall out as quickly with old age. If scientists could transfer facts from a dogs oral history into a treatment for human teeth, could the health of human teeth be enhanced, prolonged, and strengthened?

Am I even making any sense?

Thanks for your opinions!

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Picking-out the Perfect Dog Breed
 by: James Johnson

Here are some important thoughts and/or questions you should have in your mind before you go out & bring home your new dog, first off I will pull no punches in this regard of owning a new dog. It is a lot of work at first; here is an example, every time the new pup wakes up from a nap he or she will need to go pee and off you go outside. This new dog will be with you for the next 10 to 15 years at least. Also, this new dog can and will be a loyal, faithful and devoted companion. Bringing a dog into your home is an important step for you and/or your family. There are many breeds to choose from, how do you manage to make a decision on which one breed is best suited for you? With a little thought, you can nail down the selections & find the best-suited dog breed by following a few simple steps.

Foremost, how much space do you have. Many people tend to forget this factor. Ask yourself how much space do you have in your home. It should be the primary factor to consider before picking the dog breed. If you and/or your family live in a tiny apartment, you will want to refrain from getting a large dog. Look for dogs in the Toy group, such as Yorkshire Terriers, or Some of the smaller dogs in the Terrier group, like the Miniature Schnauzer.

With that said, if you have children, you have to think about the size of the dog, as well. Very small dogs, such as Chihuahuas or Maltese, can be very frail & are occasionally accidentally injured by very tiny children. But then, very prominent dogs, such as Boxers or the Saint Bernard, can be overly rumbustious as puppies & can inadvertently turn your infant into a human bowling pin. Consider average sized breeds, such as Fox Terriers or Lhasa Apsos, as an alternative. It’s best to consider the children rather than your own preference.

The next thing is, can you give your new dog any exercise. If you have a residence with a fenced yard, your domestic dog will be able to get some physical exercise on his own. But, dog breeds in the Sporting, Hound, & Herding groupings are very high-energy animals & you will need to have enough time to provide them with more intensive physical exercise. Plan to take a great deal of long strolls with your new hound or go for a day-after-day romp in the park. Let’s think about it, these new dog breeds were bred to work hard and don’t do well unless they have a job to do or a way to burn off excess energy.

Finally, don’t forget to look at grooming demands. Some domestic dog breeds only need a little more than a half hour or so of grooming a week, while others call for to be groomed for around a little more than an hour a day. So let’s think about it, if you are short on time, don’t buy a Poodle or a Maltese, unless, of course, you plan to take your new hound for a groom. Breeds like Boston Terriers or Whippets are fine choices for busy people who don’t have time to do a lot of grooming. Boiled down, the best dog breed is the one that fits the kind of life the future owner has.

Lastly, Most people choose their dog breed because each person has their own pre-conceived idea of what he or she wants in a dog. Sometimes its just the physical attributes of the dog, like the size, the shape of the face and/or the overall looks. Do yourself a favor and do not forget the above simple steps.

After you make up your mind on which breed of new puppy you want, you will need to consider the age of the new puppy. Many individuals opt to buy a cuddly little puppy instead of an older new hound. While puppies have not acquired any bad habits, it will be up to the new owner to be sure that the puppy becomes housebroken and obedience trained.

Whilst you’ve specified the breed options and have determined which new dog is right for you, don’t get too relaxed. After all, you still have a single more important choice to make, what to name your new puppy!

Your choice for a dog breed is many. For more infomative articles and pictures of differant breeds, to help you with your dog breed choice go to http://choose-your-dog-breed.info or dog breeds

About The Author

James Johnson, the author of this article, discovers and presents information so you can become knowedgeable, in the subjects you are searching for. I hope you find this article helpful. Your choice for a dog breed is many. For more infomative articles and pictures of differant breeds, to help you with your dog breed choice go to http://choose-your-dog-breed.info.

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Guarding is an instinctual behavior for dogs. It is useful to us when they warn strangers who intrude on their (and our) territory. One of the earliest benefits dog provided to man was to serve as an early warning intruder alert system.

Territoriality is, simply stated, guarding space. It is the dog’s way of saying “this space has value and it belongs to me and my pack.” In fact, dogs guard all sorts of things, some tangible, such as food, others intangible such as space.

When they guard these items from outsiders it can be helpful. I leave my home knowing my dog will be alert to an inappropriate intrusion. Dogs also guard tangibles and intangibles from one another. You shouldn’t expect to see a submissive dog take a bone or scrap from the alpha or dominant dog. Should he try, he’ll face a swift correction. But that’s rarely necessary because in the structure of the dog pack, it is clearly understood who is entitled to what and when.

But what happens when that clear understanding is lacking between a dog and members of his human pack? The results can be a disaster…a dog who guards something against his very owners.

In this article we’ll concentrate on space guarding behaviors. In the dog pack, if the dominant dog wants to walk from point A to point B, he will do it even if he has to nudge a lesser dog out of his way. If the more submissive dog protests, what he is actually doing is challenging the authority of his leader by trying to guard the space he occupies.

The same event may transpire in our homes. Your dog helps himself to a place on the sofa. You either sit down next to him, or try to take his collar to pull him off. Your own dog growls or snaps at you. He’s guarding space. Moreover, he’s stating in dog language that he believes he is dominant to you.

You need to open a cabinet and the dog is blocking your way. You take his collar to move him, and he growls or bites. The same thing may occur when you want to push the dog out a door, pass him in a narrow hallway, or get too close to him laying in his favorite spot.

In many households, the human occupants do not realize that their dog is guarding space until the dog becomes completely out of control. In fact, we excuse the behavior. That’s because too often people apply human standards to canine behavior. Among our species it is impolite to pull someone out of a chair or shoulder them aside when you need something. So if the dog growls when you sit by him on the couch, many people wrongly think the dog is just being grumpy, or that he was too comfortable to be disturbed.

I have actually seen adults chastise children for being “impolite” to a dog for sitting next to him on furniture, or for wanting to remove the dog from their place. People subconsciously try to accept these problems as “quirks” of the dog. Many owners try to just work around the issue by not disturbing the dog under whatever circumstance causes the dog to guard.

Unfortunately, this sends precisely the wrong message to the dog. Humoring him confirms that he is dominant, and is, therefore, entitled to guard more and more space. That’s why guarding behavior escalates for many dogs. Often, I hear from owners who’s dog began to growl at them under very limited conditions, say when being pulled off the sofa. But eventually the behavior escalates to the point where the dog growls when they even get near him on the sofa.

The owner thinks the dog is getting worse. The dog simply thinks he’s getting stronger. For some dogs, dominance is a self-rewarding behavior. You want to remove him from the couch. He growls. You back off. The behavior works. So eventually he growls when you even look at him on the couch. “They just don’t seem to get it,” the dog is thinking. “I’ll have to warn them earlier.”

This can become very problematic for some pet owners, particularly those with young children in the house. Kids often don’t realize that they’re not “supposed to bother the dog.” They just figure they have liberty to safely toddle wherever their little legs will take them. And if you ask me, they should have that right.

Older children must be taught to respect dogs. And younger children must be observed very carefully when they interact with a dog, to be sure they do not accidentally pinch him for example. But no one can expect a two year old child to understand she should avoid Rover when he’s laying on the sofa.

Willy is a three year old German Short Hair Pointer. His owner, Lisa, called me very concerned. Willy had been growling at her baby every time the child approached him in his dog bed. Sometimes Willy would climb on the couch, and he would also growl at the baby on those occasions. Apparently this behavior had been going on for over a month. And just recently, the dog had growled at Lisa when she sat near him on the couch. Lisa was very confused because this entire set of behaviors was only about a month old, but it was getting worse fast.

“Did your baby start walking about a month ago?” I asked her. The answer was yes. That made it all clear to me. Willy always felt Lisa was dominant to him. So he never growled at her before. But when the baby started walking, this impudent little human would intrude on his space, and Willy did believe himself dominant to the baby.

Not understanding the behavior, Lisa had spent an entire month showing Willy how dominant he was by not correcting him and not letting the baby disturb him when he was comfortable. The unintended message to Willy was that he was more dominant than he had originally thought. That’s why he began to guard space from Lisa too.

While not all dogs progress from growling to snapping, or from air snapping to contact biting, that does happen with some dogs. And it’s tragic because it usually doesn’t need to reach that point. Left untreated, most dogs who effectively guard space will eventually scare or hurt their owners enough to be removed from their homes, or be put down.

Willy became a client of the Chicagoland Boarding School for Dogs. In the time he spent with us, we used our Forcefree Method to show him that space was not a resource he should guard from his human family.

We taught Willy a series of exercises using a vibrating training collar delivering a series of low level taps. The vibration, while not at all painful, was attention getting. (Before we put the collar on Willy, we let Lisa feel the the collar on her hand so she understood they were not painful. Lisa described the feeling as a mild tickle.) During the initial phase of training, our goal was to teach Willy that when he felt the taps, he could stop them by altering a behavior.

We started out with leash pulling, showing him that pulling on a tight leash turned on the tapping sensation, and that walking nicely on a loose leash turned them off. Then we went to the sit stay. We showed Willy that getting up when he was supposed to be sitting turned on taps that he could turn off instantly by re-sitting himself.

The reason we didn’t go right to the space guarding issue was simple. We didn’t want to overwhelm the dog by immediately training for the most difficult behavior first. Also the guarding behaviors are very specific to the family. They might be tough to reproduce without his sofa, his baby, and his owner.

But once Willy understood that he could stop collar taps by altering a behavior, we were ready to confront the real issue, the guarding of space. By this point in the training, we had established a bond of trust and affection with Willy. That was critical because now we were teaching him to yield his personal space to us under the pressure of the taps.

In short, by sometimes invading Willy’s personal space, while tapping, we showed him that he could turn off the tapping, as usual, by giving us a desired behavior…in this case, moving out of the way. Starting on leash, we held the dog close to our body, literally turning into him, and tapped as we moved through his space. Using a combination of leash pressure and body movement, we moved Willy out of the way. The second he began to yield his space, the taps stopped.

Willy began to understand very quickly. Space wasn’t worth guarding anymore. In fact, each time we asked him to give up space, he became very willing to do so at once. After all, as far as he knew, any space we asked him for became slightly annoying anyway.

We brought this dog home at the conclusion of our ten day program, reoriented him to his family and his environment, transferred the behavior modification techniques to his owner over the course of two hours. Then we left.

Lisa called two days later. She reported that Willy was leaving his dog bed as soon as the baby approached. We were happy with this report, but Lisa was concerned. She wanted the dog and the baby to be friends and she was worried that the dog was now “fleeing” from the baby.

We explained that this was progress given that the dog had modified a major behavior and was now yielding space, rather than guarding it. We advised her to give it some more time to see if the dog would eventually find pleasure in sharing space, time and bonding with the baby in his new submissive role. We did warn Lisa that not all dogs bond with all people, but that it was still a distinct possibility.

Two weeks later Lisa called again, and she was very happy. She found Willy and the baby curled up together in the dog’s bed. Apparently, Willy had calmed down enough to realize that while he was no longer able to guard space, there was a wonderful pleasure in sharing it.

Trust is something that grows over time, and with experience. Every day that passes as Willy continues to show the right reaction is one more day in which the trust between he and his family grows. Willy has been home for several months now, and all the reports are good news.

Here is a dog who was at severe risk for re-homing and possibly might have injured a child, curled up in bed with his little master.

About The Author

Marc Goldberg is a dog trainer specializing in the rehabilitation of difficult dogs and improving relationships. He is Vice President of the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP) and Editor of SafeHands Journal. The author also educates professional dog trainers in his techniques. Visit him on the web at http://www.chicagodogtrainer.com or http://www.dogtraininginchicago.com.

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Back with more news for you today. It’s amazing how much good information there is on this stuff out there if you know where to look. Three in particular that I found really valuable were…

Big Government » Blog Archive » Health Care Reform: Don’t Copy …

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The unions right now can put Blue Dogs like Stupak of Michigan back in their kennels with their anti-abortion threats on the healthcare bill…I been sayin' for months now that the House of Representatives is where it's at! …

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Choosing a Shetland Sheepdog Breeder
 by: Heather Bethune

First of all, the most important thing to remember is not to buy from a pet store. Ever! The puppies available at pet stores usually come from “puppy mills”, where they receive less than adequate health care, to say the least, and are extremely prone to health and heredity problems. Health guarantees are often insuffient, or are simply not honored. The puppy mills producing these animals usually use bad breeding practices, such as ignoring potential (or known!) hereditary defects, selecting for looks only, neglecting temperament in breeding decisions, and not providing proper health care and cleansliness of breeding pairs, pregnant and nursing mothers, or puppy litters. Puppies may also be removed from their mother too early, resulting in even more long-term personality problems than the puppy was already born with. They are then often neglected and sometimes mistreated while waiting to be sold.

That being said, most of these problems are not isolated to pet stores. Many people make the mistake of buying directly from the puppy mill. A good rule of thumb is to visit the kennels personally before making a purchase decision. Are the animals clean? Do they appear healthy? Well socialized? Shelties, like all animals, and people, for that matter, have distinct personalities. Some Shelties are shy, some are barky, and some are naturally nervous, especially if they are kept kenneled outdoors. However, a Sheltie should never be aggressive. This is a sign of bad breeding, and any indication of aggression (other than a protective mother with new puppies, of course) should prompt you to get in your car and drive away immediantly! Are there so many animals that proper care seems impossible? Feces piling up, uneaten food, empty water bowls, and extremely smelly animals are more reasons to run. No breeder with an average number of dogs can keep all of their Shelties perfectly groomed all of the time. But the dogs should be reasonably clean, free of mats, debris, and odor. Most, if not all, of the animals should have been thoroughly brushed within the past week or so, and bathed within the past 2 months. It is usually pretty easy to spot a Sheltie who has not been regularly groomed, by the condition of their coat. Please do not confuse normal shedding with neglect, though! If you are concerned about the coat condition of any of the breeder’s dogs, don’t hesitate to ask them about it.

Even if the kennel does not appear to be a puppy mill, and is clean, there could be problems with the breeder. Can the breeder provide references upon request? Do they answer your questions in an informed, cooperative manner? Do they appear knowledgable about hereditary diseases and problems associated with the breed? Are they willing to discuss the flaws of their puppies and adults? (No dog is perfect, and a breeder who is unwilling to openly discuss flaws is another reason to run). If the animal is purebred, can they offer a pedigree? What type of contract, if any, is required? A pet puppy should only be sold under a spay/neuter contract. If the puppy is being sold as a show/breeder prospect, the breeder should be able to point out the virtues that make this puppy worth showing/breeding. By the same token, they should be able to tell you why a puppy is being sold as a pet. Does it simply have an undesirable characteristic such as large ears, or round eyes, or is there a structural flaw such as an over or under-bite (could lead to dental problems), or a heaing/vision problem. Perhaps it is not suited for the show ring because of personality quirks. None of these things make a puppy less desirable as a companion, but they do keep her out of the show ring, and, hopefully, the whelping box. Another unpleasant, but necessary question to ask: What happens if the puppy does not work out for you? Perhaps a divorce or illness or allergy will prevent you from keeping the animal someday. Will the breeder take the dog back? Or will you be forced to put the dog in a rescue or shelter, or worse, the pound? Noone wants to face that possibility when buying a puppy, but it is extremely important that the breeder be willing to take responsibilty for the animals they have bred.

Now that you have thought of some questions for the breeder, let’s talk about the questions they should be asking you. A responsible breeder will want alot of information from you, such as they ages of your children. Are they accustomed to dogs? Are you familiar with the breed? Where will the puppy sleep? What do you plan to feed him/her? What type of training techniques to you plan to use? (They should also offer suggestions if needed). Do you have a fence? If not, how do you plan to keep the animal safe? These are just a few of the questions a responsible breeder will ask. They should also offer brushing lessons and grooming tips. A puppy should not be sold without a signed contract, registration papers, health guarantee, shot/health record, and breeder-contact information, as well as feeding, grooming, and general care instructions, and at least a couple of days worth of food.

One of the best things about a good breeder is that they are almost always willing to recommend a fellow breeder when necessary. If you decide not to buy one of their puppies, they should never hesitate to refer you to another breeder who may have what you are looking for. If they hesitate, that is a red flag. Are they not familiar with area breeders? Why not? Are they reluctant due to injured pride, or hurt feelings? Perhaps they have a poor reputation with other breeders, and fear what a good breeder may say about them. (A good breeder, like any good person, of course, should remember the old addage-”If you have nothing nice to say, say nothing” but that may not always be the case). Sometimes, unfortunately, we must recommend that you do NOT use a certain irresponsible breeder. We prefer, though, to simply recommend that you DO use a certain responsible breeder.

Don’t hesitate to ask friends, family, coworkers, vets, other breeders and dog-owners, or even strangers at the vet’s office or pet-supply store for references. Searching ads and websites can be informative, but nothing can compare to a kennel visit, or at the very least, a phone call. Many breeders with websites, such as myself, must be contacted initially by email. After that, the breeder should be willing, eager actually, to meet you in person, or at least speak with you by phone. They should also be willing to provide current photos in the meantime, and pedigrees when requested. Gut instincts and first impressions can go a long way in selecting a breeder. If you feel that something is amiss, it probably is. Run immediantly, and find a different breeder, no matter how cute the puppy may be!

About The Author

Heather Bethune is a Shetland Sheepdog breeder located in Georgia. She breeds for show, agility, and companionship, and offers training and grooming assistance as well. Visit www.bethuneshelties.com or contact the author at heather@bethuneshelties.com for more information on all aspects of buying or owning a Sheltie.

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Boxer Dogs: Clowns Not Guard Dogs
 by: Dana Goldberg

Boxers have been traced to exist for over a hundred years now. They are said to have originated from Germany as the crossbreed between the Brabanter Bullenbesser (from Belgium) and the English Bulldog. Boxer dogs are known for their intelligence, hardiness, loyalty and its being family-oriented which makes it a great family pet. It is often commented that a family with a boxer is one that is filled with laughter and joy.

Boxer dogs have the natural tendency for learning new things and mental stimulation. It is widely recognized that bored boxer dogs make bad dogs. They need to be constantly trained, just like with other dogs.

Contrary to popular beliefs, boxer dogs are not guard dogs, they can be excellent watchdogs though as they will bark at any strangers if need be. However, they don’t like isolation and are not naturally aggressive or viscous. Actually, the majority of boxers are known to not stand a time separated from their owners. They need continuous interaction with the family and are very affectionate to their owners. In fact, one of the most difficult training exercise for this breed is not to attack their own owners.

Because of their sturdiness and other “strong” physical features, they are mostly trained to become guard dogs. Sadly, many are left into abandonment due to their owner’s dissatisfactions. In actuality, they cannot be easily trained for attack and they are abused for such.

Boxer dogs are overwhelmingly playful. On a poll survey conducted, dog owners described boxers as clowns, contradicting the aggressive portrayal widely accepted today. They are exuberant from day one to their senior years. Boxer dogs is an entertaining breed and always have the knack for making unique tricks like the “kidney beaning” and the “woo-woo”. These two are often manifested when they are excited or overly happy (which is true in most cases).

Kidney beaning is a dance, which is characterized with a semi-circle turn then a turn for a full circle. On the other hand, “woo-woo” is a distinct sound they made which appeals like a bark but is actually not.

Boxer dogs have the personality that is unique in their breed, but this does not apply with all dog owners. They need to be constantly fed with physical and mental exercises to spend their high resource of body energies and add to it the attention they require. Boxer dogs are not known of sleeping the whole day away or go off 0on their own. If they are not sufficiently exercised, they may be very destructive, this they do to amuse themselves. For at least twice a day, they must be exercised or jogged.

One good way of providing worthwhile activities for boxer dogs is the obedience training. In fact, it is a must for all owners of this breed but to be sure, obedience training is both a win-win situation for both the owner and the dogs.

During training, it is not unusual to see stubborn boxers. Due to their intelligence, they tend not to listen to commands given to them. But above this, they are quick to learn and are eager for further learning.

A Boxer dog is an outdoor pet, nor can it tolerate extreme weather conditions. They have short coat and a short nasal cavity; both are not apt for cold weather and hot weather respectively. Additionally, these are lap dogs however large they get.

About The Author

Dana Goldberg is the owner of Dog Plaza. Her website offers a vast selection of dog resource. Including dog information, dog training ideas, and dog care. http://www.dogplaza.co.uk.

Simply purchasing the first pet health insurance scheme that is flung (or advertised under your nose, diplomatically or temptingly) is not the best option for ensuring your dog’s best health in the long-term; for this you, as the aware pet owner, must also ensure that there is a clause for proper treatment coverage offered in the plan for your pet’s eye health.

Many a time, the health insurance companies offering discounted or attractive insurance policy prices for their plans fail to outline that their health plans are limited in the coverage they offer for dogs and so it turns out in the end that the eyes were not insured after all. This news may register only too late for the pet owner hoping to cover cost of treatment for visual disorders and accidents through the pet health insurance policy and getting a rude shock when they get to know that if their belongs to a breed that is categorically known for its tendency towards chronic eye problems, he may be out of the running for getting an eye health coverage included!

So, this is why it is important for potential dog owners to purchase a pup from a registered and recognized agency like the CERF (Canine Eye Registration Foundation) or from professional dog-breeders that have a good reputation for being above-board in their dealings so they are assured of getting a healthy puppy, with no known medical problems. Some breeders are certified by CERF and these are the guys to consult and buy your pets from; choose with care at this stage and you will have lesser hassles when you pick that pet health insurance policy, advice experts.

However, it is also a known fact that pet health insurance companies are increasingly raising the bar for the kind of pets they will insure even at premium costs and some even ask of the owners to undertake genetic screening for their pups before the next stage of policy processing can be done.

Among the most harrowing experience for a dog owner who is hoping to get an adequate pet health insurance policy out is to find out that his dog has been diagnosed with Glaucoma, a common enough eye condition that typically starts with signs like dilated pupils that don’t react very well to light and redness in the eyes, poor vision etc.

The dog’s cornea may also get cloudy due to the above condition and though some California pet doctors may say the symptoms of Glaucoma are subtle, it is still necessary that as caring pet owners, you bring in your dog for immediate attention and medical examination at the very signs of any of these.

This is because in a pet, Glaucoma left unattended for more than 2 days can lead to increased pressure in the eyeball that has a strong possibility of turning into a case of permanent blindness, which is so avoidable and so sad for both pet and owner – so why not stay alert and prevent the neglect with timely care?

If you are the owner of a ’squinting dog’ – who sheds too many tears or seems to have a persistent eye irritation, it could well be the beginning of a cancer or a condition called Blastomyosis; besides, other conditions related to dog eye health disorder that can begin with even a scratch to the cornea are Dermoidis, which is a type of benign corneal neoplasam – much like having a third eyelid or cause a sticky discharge and ulcer to appear within the eye.

Whether it is teary-eyes or even dry eyes, these are conditions of eye health that a pet owner needs to watch out for and get medical attention for their pet immediately to control it from growing in intensity; from cataract disorders (where the opacity of the lens is affected) to bloody eyes, swollen eyelids and permanently dilated pupils, there are lots of related problems that owners need to be alert about in order to ensure their dog’s best health at all times.

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Blue Dog Dems Scuttle House Committee's Review of Health Care Reform Bill. Don't Have Enough Votes.?

What's your feeling right now?

Me? Guardedly elated…..waiting and holding my breath to see what the vote will be.

SD Republicans aim at Democratic congresswoman

Even if President Obama and the Democratic Congress lose popularity because of their handling of issues such as the economy, foreign policy and health care …   Read More…

Pet insurance policyholders 'could cuts costs on food'

Dr Stegowski warned that by no means should people attempt to save money on pet healthcare. "Skipping vet visits can harm your dog and result in higher …   Read More…

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Lieberman and the "Blue Dog" Demcorats who seem willing to implode health-care reform because of some ideological reasons? Should Sen. …   Read More…
That’s all the news for today guys, so until next time, thanks for stopping by.

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Antifreeze is one of the most common poisons in dogs because it tastes very sweet and dogs enjoy the taste. It contains ethylene glycol which in itself isn’t too poisonous, but in the body it is changed to a very toxic chemical which destroys the kidneys. A dose of around 5ml per kilo in dogs is usually fatal. Antifreeze poisoning usually occurs in colder climates, however some decorative snow globes contain a small amount of antifreeze. If they break and the dog licks up some of the liquid, that may be enough to poison him.

Dog Poison Symptoms

The early signs of antifreeze poisoning are due to the ethylene glycol itself, and include depression, head tremors, vomiting, excessive drinking and staggering. These appear within a matter of hours, and may not be very severe. Sometimes owners don’t notice there’s anything wrong in the early stages of poisoning.

Your dog may appear to recover, but in the body the antifreeze is being converted to the more poisonous chemical. This will cause kidney failure within 1-3 days, with symptoms of vomiting, mouth ulcers, coma and reduced or no urine production.

Diagnosis is difficult; your dog can have blood tests to check for ethylene glycol but these are only useful within 48 hours after your dog has drunk the antifreeze. Blood tests can suggest antifreeze poisoning, but are not specific. .If you can tell your vet that your dog has been exposed to antifreeze, he is able to start aggressive treatment straight away and hopefully prevent worsening of your dog’s condition.

Dog Poisoning Treatments

To give your dog the best chance of survival, treatment needs to start within a few hours of your dog drinking the antifreeze, before symptoms of kidney failure occur. Your vet will make your dog vomit, to remove any antifreeze from the gastrointestinal tract and stop any more absorption. Intravenous fluids are essential to flush the kidneys, and your dog can be given medication to slow the conversion of ethylene glycol to the more toxic chemicals.

Antifreeze poisoning usually has a poor survival rate. By the time kidney failure occurs, it’s unlikely your dog will survive.

Dog Poisoning Prevention

To prevent antifreeze poisoning, you need to be meticulous about wiping up any leaked or spilled antifreeze. The liquid can persist in the environment; if an area has been cleaned of antifreeze and is then dampened at a later date; the antifreeze residue can rehydrate.

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Dog Training: Tips and Tricks to Stop Your Dog from Digging Up Your Yard
 by: O’Neal Hendrix

It’s downright infuriating to look out the window and see Buddy digging another hole in the yard. You yell out the window; he may or may not even acknowledge he’s heard anything; then back to the digging. This dog behavior has got to stop.

WHY DOGS DIG…

Did you ever stop to think WHY Buddy digs? (except to make you mad!). This is the real trick – to figure out why he’s digging in the first place, the motivation behind the dog behavior. Then you can take dog training steps to discourage it, redirect that energy and possibly stop it completely.

1. I’M BORED!

Location: Digging along the fence lines and at the gate.

Why? He is bored and wants to get out for some action.

Solution: Provide more exercise for your dog, both physical and mental. The more exercise the better, according to your dog. A tired, happy dog will rest nicely between great outings.

2. I’M HOT!!

Digging along the edge of the house or shallow “pits,” especially in the heat of the summer.

Why? Your dog is most likely creating a cool spot in the cool under-earth. If under the porch, he’s creating a den.

Solution: Check to make sure you are providing fresh cool water throughout the day and night.

Is there adequate shade to protect your dog from the hot sun? Is good air circulation available or possibly a nice breeze? Or is the space filled with stagnant air?

Provide plant life (trees, bushes) for shelter from the hot sun. Cool grass keeps the ground heat down.

3. IT’S JUST MY NATURE!

Sometimes it’s the breed of dog, not so much the environment. Some breeds tend to be burrowers -hounds, huskies, malamutes are a few examples.

Solution: If this is the case, work with your dog to agree on a place he can do his thing and camouflage it with something like plants or fencing.

4. I LIKE IT!!

Some dogs just like to dig, and dig they will, no matter how much you yell and scream.

Solution: Create and help them with the ideal digging place – a sandy blend with hidden treasures that reward digging at that spot. Having a prepared area encourages the digger to focus the digging to the area you set up in an out-of-the-way place. Remember to keep the area stocked with assorted treats and toys.

TO FILL OR NOT TO FILL – EXISTING HOLES

The second part of the story is…

What to do with the holes that keep reappearing, no matter what you do? Have you back-filled holes dug by your dog only to find them dug again, over and over?

When this happens, the next stage of hole-filling is called for.

You might think this next step it involves yelling at your dog, or rapping on the window. Nope. Are you really going to stand and stare out the window hoping to correct the situation while it’s happening (which would be the only way to really correct it using this method)?

TECHNIQUES FOR “FILLING” HOLES

There are two better techniques to encourage your dog to rethink digging that hole.

The easier of the two is to fill the hole until almost full. Mix the last portion of dirt with dog poo, pinecones, moth balls, or other repelling non-harmful substance. The next time your dog arrives for the big dig, he quickly finds the game has changed. Most dogs quickly change their behavior.

The second method is more time consuming but effective. Cut a section of chicken wire or similar to cover the hole plus 8″ or more. Dig a hole a few inches deep that surrounds the hole and will fit the wire shape.

Fill the hole and then press wire in place and cover with dirt. Pack the area well, particularly around the wire edges. When your dog returns, the wire will stop his digging progress.

If along a fence line, secure the wire to the fence along the inside of the fence, just a short distance from the ground. When the wire gets to the ground, keep going vertically a short distance underground. Then bend the wire so the bottom is perpendicular to the top (forms an L). Bury the horizontal part underground inside the fence, pointing away from the fence. When your dog digs he is stopped by the wire and his weight on the earth helps keep the wire in place. The result is the dog gives up on that area.

Pretty cool, huh?!

CONCLUSION

We humans see digging as bad dog behavior. Dogs don’t, and they dig for different reasons. If you can figure out why they’re digging, you can put dog training steps in place to stop it. Some dogs dig, that’s what they do. Set them up a space to dig and you both win!

Try these dog training techniques to change unwanted dog behavior. They seriously work.

About The Author

O’Neal Hendrix is a premier professional dog trainer in Atlanta, GA. For many years, she has “worked miracles” with dogs and their owners. See what works for her. Check out her website — Trainer’s Pick Dog Supplies, http://www.dog-supplies-dog-accessories.com/.

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